The four mile paddle upriver to the falls passes the site of Kurtz’s nightmare empire, and it’s followed by a scary, white-water ride back over fourteen sets of rapids. There’s also a thrilling, and extremely wet, boat trip up the rapids to Pagsanjan Falls (also known as Magdapio Falls).Ĭheck with the local travel agencies, as some of the boatmen have been known to rip off tourists. Alternatively, there’s a bumpy three hour bus ride. Pagsanjan is worth the visit – to reach it, take the South Expressway from Manila as far as you can go, turn left to Calamba, then right, and it’s signposted. The trippy ‘Do Long bridge’ was built here, on the Magdapio River, as was Kurtz’s compound. Many had to be recreated at Pagsanjan, about an hour and a half’s drive southeast of Manila. Baler is about 120 miles northeast of Manila, reachable by a seven-hour bus journey.Īs the disaster toll mounted (the original Willard, Harvey Keitel, was replaced by Martin Sheen, who suffered a heart attack) the sets, originally located at Iba, on Luzon’s west coast, northwest of Manila, were wrecked by Hurricane Olga. The surfing beach, fresh with the smell of napalm, subsequently commandeered by Colonel Kilgore ( Robert Duvall) is Baler Bay, and is indeed just being discovered as the place to ride the waves in the Philippines. The helicopters, provided by President Marcos, were being used to put down Filipino insurgents at night, and occasionally during the day too, when they would suddenly veer off mid-shot. The Wagnerian helicopter attack on the quiet village was filmed at Baler on the northeastern coast of Luzon (the northern island of the Philippines, home to the capital, Manila). Filmed on the island of Luzon in the Philippines, the nightmare shoot was recorded in Eleanor Coppola’s book Notes and her amazing documentary film, Hearts of Darkness. Francis Ford Coppola films Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness as a total Vietnam experience, a series of overwhelming cinematic set-pieces.
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